Figs should be sited in a well-drained location in full sun.
Barbara H. Smith, ©2012 HGIC, Clemson Extension
Quick Guide to Growing Figs (Ficus carica)
Plant Type: Deciduous fruit tree or large shrub
Height & Spread: 15 – 30 ft tall and wide (with pruning for size control)
Sunlight Needs: Full sun (8 hours or more daily)
Soil Requirements: Well-drained soil; avoid root-knot nematode sites
Fertilization: Low to moderate fertility; reduce feeding in cold regions
Watering: 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation
Best for Regions: Sandhills & Coastal Plain (best); with care in Piedmont and Mountain areas
Special Features: Produces sweet fruit for fresh eating or preserving; low maintenance
Common Issues: Root-knot nematodes, rust, fruit souring (yeasts), cold injury
Propagation: Suckers, cuttings, or mound layering
How to Grow Figs in South Carolina
When it comes to growing fruit in the home garden, nothing could be easier than figs. Cultivated for thousands of years, figs have few demands on their caregivers. There are about 470 varieties of common figs—the ones we grow in the Southeast. Their delectable fruit can be eaten fresh, preserved, or used in cakes and desserts, such as ice cream.
Figs should be sited in a well-drained location in full sun. They can grow into large trees or shrubs, reaching heights of 15 to 30 ft, but severe pruning can restrict them to a manageable height, as they tend to grow wider than taller.
Figs can be cultivated as edible shade trees, summertime screens, and espaliered or container-grown specimens. They do well in most parts of South Carolina except in the Mountains.
Best Site and Soil for Growing Figs in South Carolina
Ideal Light and Drainage Conditions for Figs
Figs will grow in a variety of soils, but they require a site free from root-knot nematodes.
In the colder areas of the state, the ideal site would be the south side of a building. Cold injury can be further reduced if the fig does not receive direct sunlight early in the morning or late in the evening during the winter months.
The site should receive a minimum of 8 hours of sunlight daily during the growing season.
Follow these planting site selection tips.
Tips for Choosing the Best Planting Site
- Select a site with well-drained soil to prevent root rot.
- Avoid planting in locations with a history of nematode problems.
- In colder regions, plant on the south side of a structure to take advantage of reflected heat.
- Ensure the site gets at least 8 hours of direct sun during the growing season.
- Provide wind protection where possible to reduce winter injury.
Healthy, well-drained soil helps ensure reliable fruiting and winter survival.
Purchasing or Propagating Fig Trees in South Carolina
Fig trees from nurseries may be sold bare-rooted or in containers. Since considerable confusion exists about fig variety names, order fig plants only from reputable Southeastern nurseries; never purchase or attempt to grow the kinds of figs grown in California. They require pollination by a tiny wasp that cannot survive under South Carolina’s climatic conditions.
The only kinds recommended in South Carolina are the common types that produce only female flowers and set fruit without cross-pollination.
See Table 1 for a list of suitable fig varieties for South Carolina.
How to Propagate Fig Trees by Suckers, Cuttings, or Layering
Fig trees are easy to propagate, and a home planting can be started at very little expense.
Simple Fig Propagation Methods
1. Dig and Transplant Suckers: The simplest and easiest way to propagate figs.
2.Take Cuttings:
- Use 8- to 10-inch-long cuttings of one-year-old wood in early spring.
- Set the cuttings in a prepared bed so one or two buds on the tip are above the ground.
- Let them grow for a season before transplanting them.
- These cuttings root early, grow rapidly, and make good trees for permanent planting in the fall.
3. Mound Layering:
- Root suckers emerging from below-ground can be separated from the parent bush and transplanted.
- Each of these propagation methods performs well in South Carolina’s warm climate.
Soil Preparation and Planting Fig Trees
Soil preparation should always include a preplant soil test when planting fig trees in South Carolina. Adjust the pH and any other requirements based on the test results. Find information about Clemson soil testing at HGIC 1652, Soil Testing.
Plant fig trees while they are dormant. In warm areas, bare-rooted trees can be set out in fall or early winter. In the mountains and piedmont, it is best to set them out in spring after the danger of hard winter freezes has passed. Container-grown plants can be planted later in the season than bare-root plants.
Steps for Successful Fig Planting
1. Test the Soil First: Send a soil sample to determine pH and nutrient needs before planting.
2. Adjust Soil Conditions: Amend according to test results for balanced fertility and proper pH.
3. Plant During Dormancy:
- In warmer regions, plant in fall or early winter.
- In colder regions (mountains, piedmont), plant in spring after freeze danger passes.
4. Use Well-Drained Sites: Avoid low or soggy areas prone to root rot.
5. Mulch After Planting: Apply a 2–3-inch mulch layer to help retain soil moisture and reduce weeds.
Proper soil preparation ensures healthy root establishment.
How to Train and Prune Fig Trees
Pruning Fig Trees in South Carolina
Figs require little pruning, just enough to keep growth within bounds, to keep the crown open to sunlight and air, and to remove dead wood. Pruning fig trees in South Carolina should be done during the winter months, preferably after the coldest weather has passed but before growth begins in the spring.
Most fig cultivars bear two crops a year: a light one in early summer, borne on the previous season’s wood, and the second crop in mid- or late summer, borne on the current season’s wood.
Tree Form vs. Bush Form
Though fig plants can be trained to either a tree or a bush form, the tree form is not practical for the Mountains and Piedmont. In this region, fig plants are occasionally frozen back, making the tree form difficult to maintain.
Begin training to bush form at the time of planting by cutting off one-third of the young plant. This forces shoots to grow from the base of the plant. Let these shoots grow through the first season.
Then, during the late winter after the first growing season, select three to eight vigorous, widely spaced shoots to serve as leaders.
Remove all other shoots.
Ensure the leaders are spaced far enough apart to grow to 3 to 4 inches in diameter without crowding each other. If they are too close together, the leaders cannot grow thick enough to support themselves and their crop and tend to fall over or split off under the stress of high winds. If this happens, remove the damaged leader and select a new one late the following winter by choosing one of the many suckers that arise annually.
Annual Pruning Tips
Beginning the second year after planting, if more branching is desired, head back the bush each spring after the danger of frost has passed but before growth has started. Do this by removing approximately one-third to one-half of the annual growth.
Also, prune out all dead wood, and remove branches that interfere with the growth of the leaders. Cut off low-growing lateral branches and all sucker growth that is not needed to replace broken leaders.
Do not leave bare, unproductive stubs when you prune. These stubs serve as entry points for wood-decay organisms. Make all pruning cuts back to a bud or branch.
Pruning Checklist for Healthy Fig Trees
- Prune in late winter, before new growth begins.
- Maintain an open canopy for sunlight and air circulation.
- Remove dead, damaged, or crossing branches.
- Cut back long shoots by one-third to one-half each spring.
- Remove unneeded suckers; leave only those for future replacement.
- Always cut back to a bud or branch; never leave stubs.
Regular pruning improves air flow, fruit size, and disease resistance.
Fertilization and Watering for Fig Trees in the Sandhills and Coastal Plain
Fertilizing Fig Trees
Fig trees grow satisfactorily in moderately fertile soils without fertilizer. However, fertilizer is needed in soils of very low fertility or where competition from other plants is heavy.
Fertilization Guidelines for Sandhills and Coastal Plain Figs:
- Use a balanced fertilizer (granular or liquid) with an analysis of 8-8-8 or 10-10-10.
- For plants one to two years old, apply 1 ounce of fertilizer each month from the beginning of growth through the end of July.
- Apply fertilizer to larger plants three times a year—early April, early June, and mid-July.
- Use ⅓ pound (approximately 5 ounces) per foot of bush height per application.
- If fruits are not reaching maturity or ripening properly, reduce fertilizer—excess nitrogen or drought may be the problem.
- Increase the amount of fertilizer gradually as the tree grows, up to a maximum of 10 pounds per year.
Watering Fig Trees in the Sandhills and Coastal Plain
For optimal yields, figs require consistent watering throughout the summer. The frequency and amount depend largely on soil conditions. As a general rule, 1 inch of water per week from rain or irrigation is adequate.
Signs of Drought Stress:
- Yellowing and dropping leaves indicate the plant needs water.
- In lawns, grass beneath fig plants may wilt in the heat while the rest of the lawn remains green — a clear sign the figs need watering.
- Figs grown with lawn grasses may require one or more waterings per week during hot, dry periods.
Fertilizing and Watering Fig Trees in the Mountains and Piedmont
Winter injury in figs is directly related to the amount of vigor. Low winter temperatures in the Piedmont easily kill vigorous, fast-growing plants. If figs are frequently damaged by cold in the area, reduce the fertilization recommendations by one-half.
If attempting to grow figs near the mountains, no fertilizer should be applied to make the plants as cold hardy as possible.
Fertilization Guidelines for the Mountains and Piedmont:
- For plants one to two years old, apply ⅓ pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer each month from the beginning of growth through the end of July.
- For a bush 12 to 15 feet tall, apply 4 pounds of 10-10-10 in mid-April, early June, and mid-July.
- For smaller plants (less than 12 feet tall), use about 1 pound of 10-10-10 per foot of height, divided into the same three applications.
- If fruits are not reaching maturity or ripening properly, reduce fertilization—excess nitrogen or drought may be the cause.
Watering Figs in the Mountains and Piedmont
Even in cooler areas, figs benefit from consistent soil moisture during the growing season. Avoid overwatering, as saturated soil may lead to root decay, especially in colder climates.
Mulching around the base of the plant helps maintain soil moisture and temperature consistency, protecting roots from freeze–thaw damage.
Why Fig Trees Drop Fruit or Fail to Produce in South Carolina
Common Causes of Fig Fruit Drop
Several conditions may prevent the fruit from ripening or cause it to drop prematurely. The following list of the most common reasons is presented in order of importance:
- Young, Vigorous Plants:
Young, vigorous plants will often produce figs that do not ripen. If the plants are excessively vigorous, stop fertilizing them. Quite often, it may be three or four years before the plant matures a crop because most figs have a long juvenile period before producing edible, quality fruit. - Hot, Dry Weather:
Dry, hot periods that occur prior to ripening can result in poor fruit quality. If this is the case, mulching and supplemental watering during dry periods will help mitigate the problem. - Varietal Tendencies (e.g., ‘Celeste’):
The ‘Celeste’ variety will often drop fruit prematurely in hot weather, regardless of how well the plants are cared for. However, it is still one of the best varieties for the lower part of the state.
‘Celeste’ is also best for the Piedmont because of its cold hardiness. - Root-Knot Nematodes:
An infestation of root-knot nematodes can intensify the problem when conditions are as described above in #2 and/or #3. - Pollination Issues (Rare):
Some figs require cross-pollination by a special wasp, which is a rare problem. If this is the case, then it will never set a good crop. One way to resolve this is to replace the plant with a recommended variety from Table 1.
Alternatively, propagate a shoot from a neighbor’s plant that produces a good crop each year.
How to Prevent Fig Fruit Drop
- Avoid excess fertilization, especially nitrogen-heavy blends.
- Provide consistent watering during dry, hot periods.
- Choose recommended, self-fruitful varieties suited for South Carolina conditions.
- Check for root-knot nematode infestations if plants continue to struggle.
- Be patient—young figs may take 3–4 years before bearing reliable crops.
Most fruit drop issues can be prevented through proper watering, fertilization, and selecting the right cultivar.
Common Fig Pests and Diseases in South Carolina
Root-knot nematodes are the primary pest of fig trees in the sandhills and coastal plain. An on-the-spot diagnosis of root-knot infection is possible. Dig up a few roots and look for the characteristic galling or swelling caused by the nematode. There is no other similar problem in figs.
Although figs are generally low maintenance, several pests and fungal diseases can affect production.
Root-knot Nematodes in Figs
Infected fig trees cannot be cured with chemical treatment. Pruning back the top to balance it with the weakened root system, along with attentive watering and fertilization, may prolong the life of a root-knot-infected fig tree. Usually, however, they will die sooner or later regardless of the care they receive.
When planting a new fig tree, select a site as far as possible from any old garden sites. Take a nematode sample from this site. If root-knot nematodes are present, do not plant figs.
Fig Rust (Cerotelium fici, formerly Physopella fici)
This fungus attacks the leaves, usually in late summer. Severely infected leaves turn yellow-brown and drop. The underside of the fallen leaves will have numerous small, slightly raised, reddish-brown spots. These spots are often covered with a dusty golden-yellow mass of rust spores.
Fig rust is usually not fatal, but repeated epidemics will weaken the plant. In any given year, heavy leaf drop from rust will reduce the size and quality of the fruit. Unless fig rust is an annual problem, spraying is not warranted.
Fig Fruit Souring (several fungi and bacteria)
This is caused by yeasts that are spread by insects. Souring becomes noticeable as the figs begin to ripen. A souring fig will often show gas bubbles and/or scummy masses oozing from the eye. These figs will emit an offensive, fermented odor.
Souring cannot be controlled with chemical sprays. The only control is to grow fig cultivars that have a tight or closed eye that prevents insects from entering the fig fruit.
Pink Blight of Fig (Erythricium salmonicolor, formerly Corticum salmonicolor)
This is a fungus that appears as a dirty-white to pale pink velvety growth on dying and dead twigs. It usually occurs in the interior of the tree.
Control: Prune out infected branches and trim the tree to promote good air circulation within the canopy.
Leaf Blight (Thread Blight) of Fig (Pellicularia kolerga)
This is a fungal disease that attacks leaves and fruit. Infection may start as a semicircular brown spot at the base of the leaf. Some leaves shrivel and die while others may be covered with brown spots that break out to leave irregular holes.
During hot, wet weather, leaves can die and drop very quickly. Dead leaves are often matted together and held to the tree by threadlike strands similar to spider webs.
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Tips for Figs
- Inspect regularly for nematode damage or fungal leaf symptoms.
- Prune for air circulation to discourage blights and rust.
- Remove fallen leaves in late fall to reduce overwintering spores.
- Select resistant or closed-eye cultivars to prevent souring.
- Avoid chemical treatments unless pest presence is verified.
Recommended Fig Varieties for South Carolina Home Gardens
Table 1. Recommended Fig Varieties for South Carolina Home Gardens
| Variety | Fruit Color | Fruit Size | Quality of Fruit | |
| For Fresh Use | For Preserving | |||
| Alma | Greenish brown | Small | Very good | Good |
| Brown Turkey | Bronze | Medium | Good | Excellent |
| Celeste | Light. brown to violet | Small | Very Good | Excellent |
| Ischia green | Bright green | Medium | Good | Good (seeds objectionable) |
| Hunt | Dull bronze with specks | Small to medium | Good | Excellent |
| Kadota | Bright greenish yellow | Small to medium | Fair | Excellent |
| LSU Gold | Yellow | Large | Good | Excellent |
| LSU Purple | Reddish to dark purple | Medium | Variable | Unacceptable* |
| Magnolia | Bronze with white flecks | Medium with specks | Fair | Excellent |
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Additional Cultivars for Landscape or Container Gardens
Other cultivars that should be considered for landscape or container gardens are listed in Table 2 (excerpted with permission from W. H. Outlaw Jr. and N. N. Outlaw, 2001).
These figs were exposed to 15 °F in January 1999, and damage and plant size were assessed in midsummer of the same year. Fruiting was evaluated in 1999 and 2000. Only the five high-yielding cultivars are presented below.
Table 2. Cold-Tolerant Fig Cultivars for Landscape and Container Gardens
| Cultivar | Plant Size1 Diameter (inches) /Height (feet) |
Description of Cold Damage2 | Fruit3 1999/2000 |
| Excel | 2/3.5 | Dieback to 7.5in. | ++/+ |
| Jelly | 2/3.5 | Bark damage to 1 in. | ++/+ |
| LSU Gold | 2/4.8 | Tip dieback; unthrifty | +/++ |
| Verdal Longue | 1/4 | No damage | ++/++ |
| Violette de Bordeaux | 1/2.7 | Dieback to the soil | 0/++ |
| 1Diameter was measured 4 inches above the soil level. Height is measured from the soil level to the tip of the longest shoot. 2Dimensions refer to the shoot diameter for which no cold damage was observed. 3+ = some fruit; ++ = much fruit. Source: “Experiment: Twenty potted fig cultivars on the Gulf Coast of the southern U.S.” by William H. Outlaw Jr. and Nedra N. Outlaw, The Fruit Gardener, California Rare Fruit Growers, Inc., July/August 2001, pp. 15-16. |
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Document last updated 10/25 by N.Jordan Franklin.
Originally published 10/12
