Coastal Region – Brad Fowler
- November is a great time to plant some spring flowering bulbs like daffodils. As a general rule, planting depth for bulbs is 3 times the height of the bulb.
- Late fall can still be a good time to plant many woody trees and shrubs, and some perennials in coastal regions.
Planting of native grasses and herbaceous perennials installed in late fall.
Catherine Watts, ©2025 (Water Resources Agent Horry County)
- New plantings may need to be watered, but otherwise, be very conservative when irrigating in the fall. Many plants are not using much water due to milder temperatures, and excessive watering may lead to issues.
- Disease can overwinter on fallen leaves, so make sure to rake up debris around shrubs that consistently struggle with fungal problems. If fungus isn’t a problem, then consider leaving the leaves as mulch and a place for beneficial insects to overwinter.
- Keep an eye out for fungal disease in lawns and apply fungicides as needed, making sure to follow all label instructions. Fungus that goes untreated may cause damage in the fall and winter that results in an unhealthy lawn in the spring.
- Early November may allow enough time to plant a few last-minute vegetables like onions.
A few vegetables like onions can be planted later in the fall.
Brad Fowler, ©2025, Clemson Extension
Midlands Region – Carmen Ketron
- Resist the urge to prune trees and shrubs right now. Pruning stimulates new growth, and tender shoots won’t have time to harden off before winter temperatures arrive. Save major pruning tasks for late winter or early spring when plants are ready to respond with vigorous growth.
- Leave the perennial flower stalks and seed heads for wildlife. Standing perennials provide visual interest during dreary months, seeds for birds, and shelter for overwintering beneficial insects. Wait until new growth emerges in spring or after the last frost to cut back perennials and replace annuals. The only exception: remove diseased plants or noxious weeds immediately to prevent problems from spreading.
Swamp Rose-Mallow (Hibiscus grandiflora) seed head left to allow wildlife to eat.
Carmen Ketron, ©2025, Clemson Extension
- Leave your Leaves. Before hauling leaves to the curb, consider their ecological value. By removing all fallen leaves, we eliminate critical overwintering habitat for fireflies and countless other beneficial insects. If neighborhood regulations permit, consider designating a naturalized corner of your yard where leaves can remain undisturbed throughout the winter.
Leave the leaves. They are great for the lawn and wildlife.
Carmen Ketron, ©2025, Clemson Extension
- Skip the fertilizer. Fertilizing can trigger unwanted growth during cold weather. Trees, shrubs, and turfgrass should remain dormant through winter. Instead, mulch and add a layer of compost around plants to keep them warm.
Mulch applied in winter months insulates plant roots from freezing temperatures, retains soil moisture, and suppresses weeds.
Carmen Ketron, ©2025, Clemson Extension
- Turn off the irrigation. The Midlands typically receive adequate rainfall during the fall and winter months. Excessive watering combined with cooler temperatures creates ideal conditions for fungal diseases and root rot. Shut down irrigation systems and only water if we experience more than two weeks without measurable rainfall. When supplemental watering is needed, water deeply but infrequently.
Upstate Region – Briana Naumuk
- There is still time to dig, divide, and replant crowded perennials. Look for the ones that have spread to places they shouldn’t be or have declined due to overcrowding. You can use them to fill in your garden or give them away to friends.
- This is also a great time to move shrubs if they are too big for their space and plant both trees and shrubs. Be sure not to cover the root flare when planting.
Beautyberry
Briana Naumuk, ©2025, Clemson Extension
- For established trees and shrubs, you can prune out diseased, damaged, and dead branches. Be sure to wait until winter to do drastic pruning.
- Leave the leaves where possible. Let them break down naturally over the winter. They will improve the soil naturally by adding organic matter. They have the added bonus of providing a habitat for beneficial insects like fireflies.
- If you don’t like the look of the leaves, shred them into smaller pieces with a lawnmower, then place them in flower beds. Other mulches can then be placed on top in the spring. Be sure to remove leaves from grassy areas as they can suffocate the grass.
- Think ahead and treat the warm-season lawn for any weeds that have been a pest in the past. Acting like these weeds don’t exist will allow them to become well-established by spring, making them harder to control.
- Weeds aren’t the only thing to keep an eye on. If you have had issues with disease in the past, this is a great time to scout to see if it’s back. For example, a second fungicide application for Large Patch disease control in warm-season lawns if the first application was made in October.
- Plant spring-blooming bulbs outdoors. If deer are a problem in your area, plant daffodils, allium, hyacinths, squill, and snowdrops. If squirrels, chipmunks, or voles are a problem in your area, plant snow iris, Spanish bluebell, colchicums, and dogtooth violet.
Tulips
Briana Naumuk, ©2025, Clemson Extension
