Growing vegetables is a rewarding experience for home gardeners, though it isn’t always easy. Experience and skill are often needed to appropriately manage the insect, disease, weed, fertility, and cultural issues that arise in the garden. Certain vegetable crops are plagued by greater and more complex issues than others, making them far more challenging to grow; however, as gardening experience is gained and skills are developed, even the most difficult of crops can be mastered.
This publication ranks common vegetables and herbs grown in South Carolina into one of four groups (easy, intermediate, difficult, and very difficult) based on the experience level and skills required to grow them successfully. For each crop, a few reasons are given to explain why that crop was placed in its respective group, along with a few practices to help ensure success. Beginning growers are advised to develop their horticultural skills with crops in the “Easy” group before trying those that are more difficult to grow.
Easy Vegetable Crops to Grow
Vegetables and herbs in this group are quite forgiving and are great for beginners. To be successful with these crops, gardeners should master proper variety selection, watering, liming and fertilizing, pruning, and basic pest management practices.
Herbs (basil, dill, mint, cilantro, rosemary, oregano): Culinary herbs can be a great addition to the garden, providing functionality and beauty. After planting, they require little care. Herbs can be grown in small spaces and harvested multiple times throughout the growing season. One potential issue is that some herbs may grow rather aggressively. Perennials, such as mint, may eventually take over an entire bed, while annuals, such as dill and cilantro, may seed prolifically and come back every year whether they are wanted or not. Downy mildew can be a devastating disease on basil. Some herbs are hosts for the larval stages of butterflies, such as dill which is a host for black swallowtails.
Tips for Success: Choose planting sites carefully, keeping in mind that some herbs may become weedy. Confined beds may be best for mint. Choose basil varieties that have resistance to downy mildew, such as Rutgers Devotion DMR and Prospera Compact DMR. Identify caterpillars before spraying or hand picking, as they may be aesthetically valued species. For more information, see HGIC 1311, Herbs.
Both turnip tops (greens) and roots can be eaten.
Zack Snipes, ©2021, Clemson Extension
Kale, Mustard, Turnip greens, Radish, Arugula: These crops do quite well due to their quick growth and maturity. They have a long harvest window and are forgiving when they are not picked or tended to every day, unlike crops like squash and okra. These crops are grown in the cooler seasons when temperatures are more enjoyable for gardening. While these crops are easy to grow, insects, such as aphids and caterpillars, can be occasional pests. Cold damage may occur in the fall and early spring.
Tips for Success: Carefully inspect transplants for insects before purchasing and planting. Begin monitoring for insect pests immediately after planting and continue to monitor weekly throughout the growing season. Handpick or treat caterpillars with appropriate insecticides (Bt or Spinosad). Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides. Aphids can be treated with neem or insecticidal soaps. Avoid cold damage by covering the plants when a frost/freeze is expected. For more information, see HGIC 2203, Cabbage, Broccoli, and other Cole Crop Insect Pests.
The asparagus, or yardlong bean, is a prolific producer in the South Carolina heat and humidity.
Zack Snipes, ©2020, Clemson Extension
Beans and Peas: Beans and peas produce a crop relatively quickly, take up little space, are abundant in yield, and are very nutritious. Diseases and insects, such as the cowpea curculio, can be issues, though in most seasons, beans and peas will produce crops with little or no pest management.
Tips for Success: Close attention should be paid to the planting date as most beans and peas do not do well in the heat and humidity of South Carolina summers. These crops have weak root systems; therefore, be careful not to pull the entire plant from the ground when picking. For more information, see HGIC1302, Bush and Pole-Type Snap Beans, HGIC 1328, Garden Peas, and HGIC 1319, Southern Peas.
Lettuce: Lettuce is a great addition to any spring or fall garden as it grows quickly, has few pests, and has a long harvest window. Leaf lettuce and lettuce mixes, such as mesclun mix, can be harvested three to six times depending on the planting date and weather during the season. Lettuce is sensitive to heat and can bolt (bloom) rapidly, bringing harvest to an end. Lettuce develops a bitter taste once the bolting process is initiated.
Tips for Success: Carefully select planting dates in the early fall and late spring to avoid summer temperatures. Select varieties that are touted for heat tolerance and bolting resistance. Wash lettuce carefully to remove soil particles before eating. Lettuce grown in sandy regions of the state can be particularly gritty. For more information, see HGIC 1312, Lettuce.
Okra: Few annual crops are easier to grow than okra. If soil pH and fertility are at acceptable levels and plants receive adequate water, gardeners should enjoy excellent yields for months. Nematodes can significantly lower yields and can persist in the soil for years. Fire ants can be problematic when harvesting.
Tips for Success: If root-knot nematodes have been an issue previously, rotate to a new bed or garden plot. Okra must be picked every day or every other day to keep plants producing and pods from becoming fibrous. Look out for fire ants on the pods while harvesting. Manage fire ants with bait products or mound drenches labeled for use in vegetable gardens. For more information, see HGIC 1263, Managing Fire Ants in the Vegetable Garden and HGIC 1330, Crop Rotation.
Intermediate Vegetable Crops to Grow
Crops in this group are more affected by pests and cultural issues than the previous group. These crops can still be grown with relative ease, though issues may arise, requiring attention. Gardeners should continue to master watering, fertility, and pest management practices.
Broccoli is a great fall crop that should be harvested when heads are 6 to 8 inches wide.
Justin Ballew, 2020, Clemson Extension
Collard, Broccoli, Cabbage: These crops are relatively easy to grow but can be tricky due to insect pests. Caterpillar pests are the most significant challenge, particularly the diamondback moth, imported cabbageworm, cabbage looper, and cross-striped cabbageworm. These pests build up quickly and consume significant amounts of foliage, greatly reducing yield. Diseases, such as black rot, may develop following storms and spread each time it rains or when plants are irrigated overhead. Untimely frost or freeze events may cause damage to developing cabbage and broccoli heads.
Tips for Success: Carefully inspect transplants for disease and insects before purchasing and planting. Begin monitoring for caterpillar pests immediately after planting and continue to monitor weekly throughout the growing season. Handpick or treat caterpillars with appropriate insecticides (Bt or Spinosad). Avoid broad-spectrum insecticides. When broccoli and cabbage are heading, cold damage may be avoided by covering the plants when frost or a freeze is expected. Reduce the spread of disease by removing diseased or damaged leaves. For more information, see HGIC 2203, Cabbage, Broccoli, and other Cole Crop Insect Pests and HGIC 2202, Cabbage, Broccoli, and other Cole Crop Diseases.
Cucumber: Cucumbers are a staple of the summer garden and can provide weeks of abundant harvests. Diseases (downy mildew and powdery mildew) and insects (cucumber beetles, pickleworms, and melonworms) can be problematic, especially in fall plantings. Poor pollination often causes misshapen fruit.
Tips for success: Choose varieties that are resistant or tolerant to powdery and downy mildew. Plant early to avoid downy mildew. Constructing a trellis can help improve airflow around plants and make picking easier. Drip irrigation helps keep foliage dry, which is another important disease management strategy. Avoid pollination issues by growing various flowering plants in the garden to attract pollinators. For more information, see HGIC 1309, Cucumber, HGIC 2207, Cucumber, Squash, Melon, and Other Cucurbit Insect Pests, and HGIC 2206, Cucumber, Squash, Melon, and Other Cucurbit Diseases.
Onions and Garlic: Onions and garlic are some of the most cold-hardy crops in South Carolina and can make a drab garden look green during the winter. Onions can be planted from seed, sets, or bulbs. They can be harvested green as spring onions or left to mature into slicing or dried onions. Garlic can be grown until it forms a bulb. However, some disease issues can reduce yield. Garlic can be harvested early, similar to green or spring onions. Onions and garlic are typically planted in the fall and harvested in the spring into early summer. The long growing season required by onions can tie up valuable space in small gardens.
Tips for Success: Select short-day varieties of onion. Select large garlic cloves for seed, as larger cloves produce larger bulbs. Soil sample before planting and maintain proper fertility throughout the growing season. For more information, see HGIC 1314, Onion, Leek, Shallot, and Garlic.
Hot peppers, such as Carolina Reapers, are fun backyard garden crops.
Justin Ballew, 2021, Clemson Extension
Peppers: Gardeners can choose from many varieties of peppers, offering a diverse spread of color, taste, shape, and intended use. Most peppers like the heat of the summer and can produce an abundance of fruit on a relatively small plant. Bell peppers are less heat tolerant than other pepper species and need to be planted earlier in the season. Peppers are difficult to start from seed and take a few months before they are ready to transplant. Peppers can be plagued by diseases, including Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV), anthracnose fruit rot, and bacterial spot.
Tips for Success: Select TSWV and bacterial spot resistant varieties. Carefully inspect transplants for bacterial spot before planting. Avoid overwatering, as root rots significantly reduce yield or kill the entire plant. Harvest regularly to reduce fruit rots. For more information, see HGIC 1316, Pepper.
Pattypan is a type of squash that adds diversity to the summer garden.
Zack Snipes, ©2017, Clemson Extension
Summer squash (yellow squash and zucchini): Squash and zucchini are prolific producers in spring and summer gardens. Gardeners often underestimate how large the plants can get, leading to overcrowded gardens. Diseases like powdery mildew and insects, such as squash vine borers, cucumber beetles, and squash bugs, are common pest issues but can typically be managed by planting early before populations build.
Tips for success: Plant early before pest populations build. Space plants appropriately to avoid overcrowding. Select varieties resistant to powdery mildew. Drip irrigation helps keep foliage dry, which is another important disease management strategy. Scout for insect pests regularly and treat accordingly. Use broad-spectrum insecticides wisely (apply late in the evening), especially during bloom, as they are also harmful to pollinators. Harvest before fruit grow too large, and seeds become dense. For more information, see HGIC 1321, Summer Squash.
Potato and Sweetpotato: Potatoes are a relatively slow-growing crop, requiring around 100-120 days to mature. They are members of the same plant family as tomatoes and peppers (Solanaceae) and are susceptible to many of the same diseases, such as bacterial wilt, early blight, and late blight. Colorado potato beetles and wireworms can also be problematic. Many growers harvest too early, resulting in poor yield and small potatoes. Sweetpotato is another easy crop to grow during the hotter months. Sweetpotato is a nutrient dense food that stores well for months if properly cured.
Tips for Success: Rotate plantings to a different bed or garden plot each year to avoid nematodes, wireworms, and soilborne disease issues. Purchase high quality seed potatoes or slips from a reputable source each year to avoid potential disease issues caused by saving seed potatoes. Scout regularly for Colorado potato beetles and handpick them or spray an appropriate insecticide as needed. To properly time harvests, keep track of the number of days that have elapsed since planting and allow vines to die down before digging. For more information, see HGIC 1317, Potato, HGIC 2214, Irish & Sweet Potato Diseases; HGIC 2215, Sweet Potato & Irish Potato Insect Pests.
Sweet corn: Sweet corn is a summertime favorite that is grown commercially throughout the Southeast. Large amounts of fertilizer and water are required to grow successfully. Caterpillars, mainly corn earworms, are the most significant pests of sweet corn. They are often found feeding on the tips of ears inside the husk. Once harvested, sweet corn degrades rapidly if not removed from hot temperatures quickly.
Tips for Success: Purchasing new seed each year produces better germination rates than saved seed. Fertilize and lime according to annual soil test results, and provide plenty of water, especially during germination and kernel fill. Scout regularly for earworms and treat as needed with appropriate insecticides. If earworms are found in ears during harvest, the ears can still be used by cutting off the damaged tip of the ear. Refrigerate sweet corn as soon as possible after harvest. For more information, see HGIC 1308, Sweet Corn.
Tomatoes (cherry and grape): Cherry and grape tomatoes are prolific producers and are easier to grow than slicing tomatoes. There are many varieties consisting of varying tastes, colors, and sizes. Many varieties are indeterminate, meaning they will keep producing until the weather turns cold. Diseases (tomato spotted wilt virus, bacterial wilt, early blight, Southern blight, bacterial spot, nematodes) are the main hurdle to production. Blossom end rot is much less prevalent in cherry and grape tomatoes than slicing tomatoes.
Tips for success: Fertilize and lime according to soil test results before planting. Carefully select varieties resistant to tomato spotted wilt virus. Practice crop rotation to avoid building up nematodes and bacterial wilt in the soil. Some pruning may be required to keep plants from becoming unruly. For more information, see HGIC 1323, Tomato, HGIC 2217, Tomato Diseases and Disorders, and HGIC 2218, Tomato Insect Pests.
North Georgia Candy Roaster winter squash is a must-try for home gardeners.
Zack Snipes, ©2019, Clemson Extension
Winter squash (acorn, butternut, kabocha, etc.): Winter squash is relatively easy to grow and is valued for its long shelf life. If given adequate water and fertilizer, yield and fruit quality are usually very good. Diseases such as powdery mildew and downy mildew can be a challenge. Downy mildew is very difficult to manage and is most severe in the fall. The vines of some varieties can be quite aggressive and may take over garden plots.
Tips for Success: Grow winter squash in the spring to avoid downy mildew. Downy mildew usually appears in South Carolina in late May or early June. If grown in the spring, gardeners can often harvest before the disease shows up. Keeping foliage dry by watering with drip irrigation is also a critical disease management strategy. Allow plenty of space when planting so vines don’t overtake other crops. For more information, see HGIC 1318, Pumpkins and Winter Squash.
Difficult Vegetable Crops to Grow
Crops in this group may be difficult to grow successfully due to weather sensitivity, pests, or other cultural issues that require frequent attention. Gardeners should be prepared to employ more intensive cultural and pest management techniques. These crops may not be good options for gardeners with limited time, budget, or equipment.
Asparagus: Asparagus is a very rewarding crop for the patient gardener. Most asparagus is planted as crowns and should be left to grow for 2 to 3 years before the first crop is harvested. Once established, asparagus can be extremely productive in the garden for fifteen years or more with very few insect or disease issues. Harvest asparagus every day for about six weeks. If not harvested daily, it will quickly turn inedible for the remainder of the season. Since asparagus is a perennial crop lasting multiple years, weeds can become problematic.
Tips for success: Prepare the soil at least a season in advance to reduce the weed seed bank. Plant crowns rather than seed for quicker harvest in year two or three. Apply adequate fertilizer, particularly phosphorous, before crowns are planted. Manage weeds year-round. For more information, see HGIC 1300, Asparagus.
Beets come in a variety of shapes, sizes, and colors.
Zack Snipes, ©2020, Clemson Extension
Spinach, Beets, Chard: These crops are great for small gardens and raised beds. They mature relatively quickly and can be harvested multiple times. Spinach, beets, and chard are cool-season crops best planted in the fall or early spring to avoid the heat. Seed germination can be an issue, especially in older seeds. Downy mildew on spinach and leaf spots on beets and chard are the main diseases gardeners are likely to encounter. Gardeners may struggle to get beets to size up in heavier soils. Additionally, they may not size properly if not thinned or planted at the right time.
Tips for Success: Buy new seed each year to avoid germination issues. Fertilize and lime according to annual soil test results. Grow downy mildew resistant varieties of spinach. Spinach and chard harvest can be prolonged by picking the lower leaves and allowing the upper leaves to grow. Harvest beets when they are 1 ½ to 2 inches long. Beet leaves may be eaten also. For more information, see HGIC 1320, Spinach and HGIC 1305, Carrot, Beet, Radish, and Parsnip.
Pumpkin: While some types of pumpkins are easy to grow, the large, round pumpkins sought for carving can be quite challenging. Disease is the main factor, especially in the Coastal Plain. Downy mildew is very difficult to manage, especially once symptoms show up. Numerous plant viruses also commonly affect pumpkins. Gardeners may find pumpkins somewhat easier to grow in the Piedmont region of the state, where the weather is slightly cooler. Pumpkins also require a long growing season and lots of water and fertilizer.
Tips for Success: Supply plants with adequate water and nutrients according to the results of a soil test. Choose varieties with virus resistance. Manage downy mildew preventatively with weekly applications of chlorothalonil or mancozeb. For those that live in the Coastal Plain, buy pumpkins at the store, roadside stand, or local fundraisers. For more information, see HGIC 1318, Pumpkins and Winter Squash, and HGIC 2206, Cucumber, Squash, Melon, and Other Cucurbit Diseases.
Tomatoes (slicing): Slicing tomatoes are a favorite of seemingly every home gardener, though they commonly cause frustration for beginners and gardeners new to South Carolina. The summer heat and humidity are a perfect breeding ground for diseases and insect pests. The onset of heat also impacts flower and fruit production, shortening the growing season. Blossom end rot is very common and can significantly impact yield.
Tips for Success: Fertilize and lime according to soil test results before planting. Carefully select varieties resistant to tomato spotted wilt virus. Hybrid varieties are easier to grow compared to heirloom varieties. Practice crop rotation to avoid building up nematodes and bacterial wilt in the soil. To avoid blossom end rot, maintain uniform watering that prevents the soil from dying out (foliar calcium sprays are not effective). Monitor and handpick caterpillar pests regularly. For more information, see HGIC 1323, Tomato and HGIC, Gardening Myths: Fix Blossom End Rot with Calcium Sprays.
Watermelon, cantaloupe, honeydew: These fruiting crops are hallmarks of summertime, though they are some of the more challenging to grow successfully. They require large amounts of water and fertilizer to develop properly and are susceptible to numerous diseases, such as cucurbit downy mildew, powdery mildew, and gummy stem blight. Insects, such as cucumber beetles, pickleworms, and spider mites (arachnids) are often problematic. Pollination issues, such as misshapen fruit, may occur if pollinator populations are low. Determining the proper time to harvest is also challenging for many gardeners.
Tips for Success: Fertilize and lime according to soil test results before planting. Fertilize and water according to Extension recommendations during the growing season. Regular fungicide applications are the most effective way to manage diseases. Drip irrigation is helpful in keeping foliage dry, which is another important disease management strategy. Scout for insect pests regularly and treat accordingly. Use broad-spectrum insecticides wisely (apply late in the evening), especially during bloom, as they are also harmful to pollinators. Growing a variety of flowering plants in the garden will help attract pollinators. Use the information in HGIC 1262, Harvesting Vegetables to determine when fruit are ready to pick. For more information, see HGIC 1325, Watermelons, HGIC 2207, Cucumber, Squash, Melon, and Other Cucurbit Insect Pests and HGIC 2206, Cucumber, Squash, Melon, and Other Cucurbit Diseases.
Very Difficult Vegetable Crops to Grow
These crops are very difficult for home gardeners to produce successfully and growing them is not advisable in most situations. Environmental factors and pest pressure often cause these crops to struggle, even under the most intensive management. Furthermore, the time and costs associated with management are typically not feasible on a backyard scale. While success is not impossible, these crops are best left to commercial growers.
Cauliflower, Brussels sprouts: Cauliflower and Brussels sprouts are slow-growing, cool-season crops. Most commercial production occurs in regions of the US with longer periods of daylight and cooler temperatures during the growing season. In cauliflower, heat stress appears as loose heads, leaves forming within the head, or leaf wilting, resulting in head discoloration from UV exposure. In Brussels sprouts, growth may slow or cease, and leaf tips may appear burned within the heads.
Tips for Success: Plant in the late summer/early fall so head formation will begin as temperatures cool off. Supply plants with adequate water and nutrients according to the results of a soil test. Growing under a shade cloth may be helpful if hot temperatures persist into the fall. For more information, see HGIC: Start Brussels Sprouts Now for a Winter Harvest.
