Juniper Diseases and Insect Pests in South Carolina

Quick Guide

• Affected Plants: Junipers (Juniperus spp.), including Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)
• Primary Disease Types: Twig blights, cedar-apple rust, root rot
• Primary Insect Pests: Bagworms, spruce spider mites, juniper scale
• Primary Causes: Fungal pathogens, water mold pathogens, insect feeding, environmental stress, improper planting conditions
• Most Important Prevention Strategy: Plant resistant juniper varieties in well-drained sites with good air circulation and avoid unnecessary plant stress.
• Chemical Control: Fungicides and insecticides may help prevent or suppress specific diseases and pests when applied according to label directions before serious damage occurs.

Introduction

Junipers (Juniperus spp.) are widely used evergreen shrubs and trees in South Carolina landscapes because they are generally durable and low maintenance. However, improper planting, environmental stress, and several diseases and insect pests can cause needle browning, branch dieback, and plant decline. Selecting resistant varieties, providing proper growing conditions, and recognizing problems early are the best ways to keep junipers healthy.

Junipers are susceptible to several diseases and insect pests in South Carolina, including Phomopsis tip blight, cedar-apple rust, Phytophthora root rot, bagworms, spruce spider mites, and juniper scale. Early diagnosis and proper cultural care help prevent most problems before chemical treatment becomes necessary.

Related HGIC Resources

Juniper (HGIC 1068)
Apple & Crabapple Diseases (HGIC 2000)

Juniper Diseases: Twig and Tip Blights on Juniper

Twig and tip blights are among the most common fungal diseases affecting junipers (Juniperus spp.) in South Carolina and can cause browning needles and progressive branch dieback.

Phomopsis Tip Blight on Juniper

Cause

Phomopsis tip blight is caused by the fungus Phomopsis juniperovora. This disease begins by infecting the tips of branches smaller than the diameter of a pencil. The disease primarily infects tender, new shoot growth, while mature foliage is much more resistant. Infections are most common during periods of warm, wet weather in spring and early summer.

Symptoms

Symptoms of Phomopsis tip blight include:

• New shoot tips become pale green.
• Foliage turns reddish-brown before becoming brown and dying
• Damage is usually limited to shoots smaller than the diameter of a pencil.
• Mature foliage typically remains healthy.
• Removing a small section of bark reveals a sharp boundary between healthy and dead wood.

Cercospora Twig Blight on Juniper

Cause

Cercospora twig blight is caused by the fungus Cercospora sequoiae var. juniperi. The disease develops first in older interior foliage and progresses during warm, humid conditions.

Symptoms

Symptoms of Cercospora twig blight include:

• Browning begins on the oldest needles inside the plant.
• Symptoms usually start on the lower branches.
• Browning gradually spreads upward and outward.
• Interior foliage dies, producing an open, thin canopy.
• Damage may resemble spruce spider mite injury.

Kabatina Twig Blight on Juniper

Cause

Kabatina twig blight is caused by the fungus Kabatina juniperi. Unlike Phomopsis tip blight, this disease most often infects older, one-year-old shoots, particularly those weakened by environmental stress or injury.

Symptoms

Symptoms of Kabatina twig blight include:

• Browning and death of one-year-old twigs.
• Symptoms resemble Phomopsis tip blight.
• Damage develops primarily during spring.
• Stressed or injured branches are more susceptible to infection.

Prevention & Treatment for Juniper Twig and Tip Blights

Cultural Controls

Before beginning treatment, closely inspect the entire plant because browning shoot tips and branch dieback can result from several problems, including drought, overwatering, root injury, and fungal diseases.

The following cultural practices help reduce disease development:

• Purchase healthy, disease-free plants with no dead or dying twigs.
• Select resistant cultivars whenever available.
• Plant junipers in full sun with good air circulation.
• Avoid poorly drained planting sites.
• Space plants to improve airflow.
• Avoid overhead irrigation whenever possible.
• Prune and dispose of infected branches promptly.
• Minimize plant stress from drought, overwatering, or root injury.

Resistant Varieties

Several juniper cultivars have demonstrated resistance to Phomopsis twig blight and cedar rust, making them good choices where these diseases are common.

Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis)

• ‘Foemina’
• ‘Keteleeri’
• ‘Mint Julep™’
• ‘Pfitzeriana’
• var. sargentii (Sargent juniper)

Common juniper (Juniperus communis)

• ‘Aureospica’
• ‘Suecica’

Creeping juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)

• ‘Plumosa’
• ‘Wiltoni’ (‘Blue Rug’)

Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana)

• ‘Tripartita’

Savin juniper (Juniperus sabina)

• ‘Broadmoor’
• ‘Skandia’

Singleseed juniper (Juniperus squamata)

• var. fargesii

Chemical Control

Preventive fungicide applications may be warranted on highly susceptible plants or where disease has been severe in previous years. Fungicides should be applied before infection occurs.

Products containing one of the following active ingredients are recommended:

• Copper fungicides
• Mancozeb
• Thiophanate-methyl

See Table 1 for product examples. Always read and follow all pesticide label directions before use.

Juniper Diseases: Cedar-Apple Rust on Juniper

Cedar-apple rust is a fungal disease that affects junipers (Juniperus spp.) and requires both junipers and plants in the apple family to complete its life cycle.

Cause

Cedar-apple rust is caused by several species of Gymnosporangium. The disease infects junipers, including Eastern red cedar (Juniperus virginiana), but also requires an alternate host—most commonly apple or crabapple—to complete its life cycle.

Spores produced on infected junipers spread to nearby apples and crabapples. Later in the season, spores produced on infected apple leaves spread back to nearby junipers, continuing the disease cycle. Eastern red cedar is the juniper most frequently affected.

Symptoms

Symptoms of cedar-apple rust on juniper include:

• Hard, brown galls that develop near the ends of branches during summer.
• Galls may reach up to 2 inches in diameter.
• During rainy periods in spring, galls produce bright orange, gelatinous spore-producing structures (often called “horns” or tendrils).
• Spores released from these structures can travel up to one-half mile to infect nearby apple and crabapple trees.

Disease Cycle

Understanding the disease cycle helps explain why both host plants are involved.

1. Cedar-apple rust overwinters on infected junipers as woody galls.
2. During wet spring weather, the galls produce orange gelatinous spore horns.
3. Wind carries spores to nearby apple and crabapple trees.
4. Yellow leaf spots develop on apple and crabapple foliage.
5. By late summer, new spores produced on apple leaves are dispersed back to nearby junipers (within 2 miles), where new infections begin.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

The following practices help reduce cedar-apple rust infections:

• Plant resistant juniper and apple cultivars whenever possible.
• Prune and destroy cedar-apple rust galls before they produce spores.
• Avoid planting susceptible apples or crabapples near Eastern red cedar when practical.
• Improve air circulation by proper plant spacing and pruning.

Resistant Varieties

Several juniper cultivars resistant to both Phomopsis twig blight and cedar rust are listed in the Resistant Varieties section under Juniper Twig and Tip Blights above.

Resistant apple varieties include:

• ‘Enterprise’
• ‘Liberty’
• ‘Pristine’
• ‘Redfree’

Chemical Control

Preventive fungicide applications may be appropriate when valuable specimen plants are at risk or when disease was severe in previous years.

Products containing the following active ingredients are recommended:

• Mancozeb
• Propiconazole

Examples of products are listed in Table 1.

Note: Do not consume fruit from apple or crabapple trees treated with products containing propiconazole unless the product label specifically permits edible use.

Always read and follow all pesticide label directions before use.

Juniper Diseases: Phytophthora Root Rot on Juniper

Phytophthora root rot is one of the most destructive diseases affecting junipers (Juniperus spp.) in South Carolina and is most common in poorly drained soils.

Cause

Phytophthora root rot is caused by the soil-borne water mold Phytophthora cinnamomi. The pathogen thrives in saturated soils and infects roots, preventing the plant from taking up water and nutrients. Warm soil temperatures and excessive soil moisture favor disease development.

Symptoms

Symptoms of Phytophthora root rot include:

• Gradual decline of the entire plant.
• Sparse or thinning foliage.
• Individual branches dying one at a time.
• Progressive dieback that may eventually kill the entire plant.
• Roots with reddish-brown centers instead of healthy white tissue.
• Outer root tissue that separates easily from the root core.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

Once symptoms develop, Phytophthora root rot cannot be cured. Preventing infection through proper site selection and drainage is the most effective management strategy.

To reduce the risk of infection:

• Plant junipers in well-drained sites.
• Avoid areas that remain wet or flood after rainfall.
• Avoid heavy clay soils whenever possible.
• Amend poorly drained planting sites by thoroughly incorporating ground pine bark (rather than sawdust or peat) into the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches.
• Plant in raised beds where drainage is poor (except in deep sandy soils).
• Avoid overwatering established plants.

Susceptible Varieties

The following junipers are considered highly susceptible to Phytophthora root rot and should be avoided in sites with drainage problems:

• ‘Andorra’
• ‘Bar Harbor’
• ‘Parsoni’
• ‘Sargents’
• ‘Shore’
• Juniperus procumbens ‘Nana’

Chemical Control

Preventive fungicide applications may help suppress Phytophthora root rot before symptoms develop, but they will not cure infected plants.

Products containing mefenoxam (Subdue GR) may be used as preventive treatments. Because these products can be expensive and require accurate application, homeowners may prefer to hire a licensed landscape professional for treatment.

Always read and follow all pesticide label directions before use.

Juniper Insect Pests: Bagworms on Juniper

Bagworms are destructive caterpillar pests that feed on junipers (Juniperus spp.) and other evergreen plants, causing needle loss and branch decline.

Cause

Bagworms (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis) are caterpillars that feed on the needles of junipers and many other trees and shrubs. Conifers are among their preferred hosts. Light infestations may slow plant growth, while heavy infestations can completely defoliate branches and kill entire plants.

Symptoms

Symptoms of bagworm feeding on juniper include:

• Missing or chewed needles.
• Progressive thinning of foliage.
• Browning branches following heavy feeding.
• Distinctive spindle- or carrot-shaped bags hanging from branches.
• Severe infestations may kill entire plants.

Identification & Life Cycle

Bagworms are named for the protective bags the larvae construct from silk and pieces of foliage.

• Adult males are dark-colored, hairy moths with clear wings and a wingspan of about 1 inch.
• Adult females are yellow, wingless, and remain inside their bags throughout their lives.
• The larva (caterpillar) constructs a distinctive carrot-shaped bag from silk and pieces of plant material, carrying it while feeding.
• Mature bags are approximately 2 inches long.
• In South Carolina, bagworms overwinter as eggs inside the female’s bag.
• Eggs hatch during May, and young larvae immediately begin feeding while enlarging their protective bags.
• Adult males emerge in late summer and locate females that remain inside their bags.After mating, each female deposits approximately 500 to 1,000 eggs inside the bag before dying.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

Removing bagworms before eggs hatch is one of the most effective management practices.

• Inspect junipers during winter and early spring.
• Hand-pick and remove bags whenever practical.
• Destroy the bags or dispose of them properly.
• Alternatively, place removed bags in a deep container that allows beneficial parasitoids to escape while preventing bagworm larvae from emerging.

Management is most successful when bagworms are treated shortly after eggs hatch in spring, before larvae become large and their bags harden.

Biological Control

Several naturally occurring predators and parasitoids help suppress bagworm populations.

Products containing the bacterial insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) provide effective biological control of bagworms. Bt contains spores of the bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis that kill caterpillars after they consume treated foliage.

Young larvae are much more susceptible to Bt than older larvae, so apply it in spring as soon as bagworms are observed. Applications made in the late afternoon or early evening generally provide the best control.

Products containing Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) selectively control young caterpillars while having minimal impact on many beneficial insects when used according to the label.

Chemical Control

If infestations are severe or bagworm cases are out of reach for hand removal, insecticide applications may be necessary.

Products containing the following active ingredients are effective against young bagworm larvae:

• Acephate
• Bifenthrin
• Cyfluthrin
• Cyhalothrin
• Spinosad

See Table 1 for example products.

Always read and follow all pesticide label directions before use.

Juniper Insect Pests: Spruce Spider Mites on Juniper

Spruce spider mites are cool-season pests that feed on junipers (Juniperus spp.) by sucking plant sap, causing needle discoloration, browning, and, in severe infestations, plant decline.

Cause

Spruce spider mites (Oligonychus ununguis) are tiny arachnids closely related to spiders, not insects. They feed by piercing needles and sucking plant sap.

Unlike many other spider mites, spruce spider mite populations are most active during the cool weather of spring and fall. Their numbers typically decline during the heat of summer as natural predators become more abundant.

Symptoms

Symptoms of spruce spider mite damage include:

• Tiny yellow or pale speckles (stippling) on needles.
• Needles that gradually turn brown.
• Premature needle drop.
• Fine webbing during heavy infestations.
• Progressive branch decline that may eventually kill the plant after several seasons of severe feeding.

Monitoring

Before applying pesticides, determine whether mite populations are high enough to require treatment.

To monitor for spruce spider mites:

1. Hold a sheet of white paper beneath an infested branch.
2. Strike the branch sharply.
3. Examine the paper for tiny mites moving across the surface.
4. If dozens of mites are present after each strike, significant damage may occur.
5. Continue monitoring every 7 to 10 days during spring and fall.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

The following practices help reduce spruce spider mite infestations:

• Wash mites from foliage with a strong stream of water regularly.
• Avoid unnecessary insecticide applications that can eliminate beneficial predators and lead to increased mite populations.
• Continue monitoring mite activity throughout the spring and fall.

Biological Control

Several naturally occurring predators help suppress spruce spider mite populations, including:

• Predatory mites
• Lady beetles (ladybugs)
• Other beneficial insects

These natural enemies often keep mite populations below damaging levels when broad-spectrum insecticides are avoided.

Chemical Control

Only treat spruce spider mites when monitoring indicates damaging populations.

Products containing the following active ingredients can help control infestations:

• Horticultural oil
• Insecticidal soap

Miticides specifically labeled for spider mite control are generally less disruptive to beneficial insects than broad-spectrum insecticides and should be used whenever practical.

See Table 1 for example products.

Always read and follow all pesticide label directions before use.

Juniper Insect Pests: Juniper Scale on Juniper

Juniper scale is a sap-feeding insect pest that infests junipers (Juniperus spp.), causing needle discoloration, branch dieback, and gradual plant decline.

Cause

Juniper scale (Carulaspis juniperi) is a sap-feeding insect that damages junipers by piercing needles and removing plant fluids. Heavy infestations weaken plants over time and, if left unmanaged, may kill a juniper within two to three growing seasons.

Symptoms

Symptoms of juniper scale infestation include:

• Needles that appear yellow or brown.
• Reduced vigor and little new growth on affected branches.
• Progressive branch dieback.
• Sticky, shiny honeydew on needles and stems as insects feed.
• Black, sooty mold growing on honeydew deposits, forming dark patches on needles.
• Gradual decline that may kill the plant after two to three growing seasons.
• Symptoms that closely resemble spruce spider mite damage.

Identification & Life Cycle

Juniper scale can often be identified by the insects themselves and by the timing of crawler emergence.

• Adult females appear as tiny, rounded scales about ⅛ inch in diameter.
• Newly developed females are white before becoming gray to black.
• Viewed with magnification, adult females are mostly flat with a slight volcano-shaped center.
• Adult females overwinter on the plant.
• Eggs are laid beneath the protective scale covering in early spring.
• Immature crawlers hatch and move to new feeding sites before settling on needles.
• As scales mature, they produce a hard protective covering and remain attached while feeding.

Monitoring

Successful management depends on determining whether scales are present as overwintering adults or newly hatched crawlers.

Monitor crawler activity by:

• Placing double-sided tape around an infested branch.
• Using sticky cards near infested plants.
• Placing an infested shoot inside a clear plastic bag and watching for crawler movement.

Crawler emergence often coincides with the flush of new spring growth. In some areas, particularly along the South Carolina coast, overlapping generations may result in an extended crawler emergence period.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

Regular inspection allows infestations to be detected before serious damage occurs.

• Inspect the undersides of needles and small twigs for scales.
• Monitor crawler activity each spring.
• Maintain plant vigor through proper watering and site selection to reduce stress.

Chemical Control

The most effective treatment depends on the scale’s life stage.

Dormant-season control

Apply a 2% to 3% horticultural oil spray during late winter or very early spring before new growth begins to suffocate overwintering adult females.

A 2% solution is prepared by mixing 5 tablespoons of horticultural oil per gallon of water. See Table 1 for example products. Do not apply horticultural oils when plants are drought stressed or when temperatures exceed label recommendations.

Crawler control

Most insecticides are effective only against the crawler stage.

Products containing the following active ingredients are recommended:

• Acephate
• Bifenthrin
• Cyfluthrin
• Cyhalothrin
• Malathion

Other Problems: Needle Browning on Juniper

Needle browning on junipers (Juniperus spp.) is a common symptom that can result from diseases, insect pests, environmental stress, or cultural problems.

Cause

Needle browning is not a disease itself but a symptom of several different problems. Fungal diseases discussed earlier in this factsheet, as well as drought, overwatering, and exposure to dog urine, can all cause needles to turn brown and die. Accurate diagnosis is important before attempting treatment.

Symptoms

Symptoms of needle browning may include:

• Needles that first turn yellow before becoming brown and dry.
• Premature needle drop.
• Browning that occurs inside the plant near the trunk.
• Browning confined to branch tips.
• Browning scattered throughout the plant.
• Progressive decline that may eventually kill the entire plant if the underlying cause is severe.

Common Causes of Needle Browning

Drought & Overwatering

Both drought stress and excessive watering can produce similar symptoms because each limits the roots’ ability to supply water to the plant.

• Check whether the soil is dry or frozen.
• Avoid overwatering, which can lead to root rot and prevent roots from absorbing water properly.

Dog Urine

Salts in dog urine can scorch juniper foliage.

• Rinse affected foliage with water if dog urine is suspected as the cause.

Prevention & Treatment

Cultural Controls

Before attempting treatment, determine the underlying cause of needle browning.

• Inspect the entire plant for signs of disease or insect pests.
• Check soil moisture and drainage conditions.
• Review recent weather conditions and irrigation practices.
• Consider whether pet activity or other environmental factors may have contributed to the damage.
• Correct the underlying problem before considering pesticide applications.

Chemical Control

Chemical treatment depends on the underlying cause of needle browning. If a disease or insect pest is correctly identified, refer to the appropriate section of this factsheet and Table 1 for management recommendations.

Note: Controlling diseases and insect pests on large trees is often impractical because adequate pesticide coverage of the foliage cannot be achieved.

Insecticides and Fungicides for Managing Juniper Diseases and Insect Pests (Table 1)

The following pesticide active ingredients and example products are labeled for managing selected juniper diseases and insect pests discussed in this factsheet. Products are grouped by fungicides and insecticides and listed alphabetically by active ingredient. Always verify that the product label includes both the target pest or disease and the intended site before use.

Fungicides

Active Ingredient	Example Product Names
Copper Fungicides	Bonide Captain Jack’s Liquid Copper Fungicide Bonide Copper Fungicide Spray or Dust Ready to Use Camelot O Fungicide/Bactericide Monterey Copper Fungicide Garden Spray Liqui-Cop Natural Guard by ferti-lome Copper Soap Fungicide Concentrate Natural Guard by ferti-lome Copper Soap Fungicide Ready to Use Southern Ag Liquid Copper Fungicide
Mancozeb	Bonide Mancozeb Flowable with Zinc Concentrate Southern Ag Dithane M-45
Mefenoxam	Subdue GR
Propiconazole	Banner Maxx II Fungicide Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control Bonide Infuse Systemic Disease Control Lawn & Landscape Ready to Spray Ferti-lome Liquid Systemic Fungicide II Quali-Pro Propiconazole 14.3 Fungicide
Thiophanate Methyl	Southern Ag Thiomyl Systemic Fungicide

Insecticides

Active Ingredient	Example Product Names
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)	Bonide Thuricide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) Ferti-lome Dipel Dust Biological Insecticide Garden Safe Brand Bt Worm & Caterpillar Killer Monterey Bt Natural Guard by Fertilome Caterpillar Killer Spray with Bt Natural Guard by Fertilome Caterpillar Killer Spray with Bt Ready to Use SA-50 Southern Ag Dipel Dust Safer Brand Caterpillar Killer For Trees, Shrubs, & Vegetables Concentrate II Southern Ag Thuricide Bt Caterpillar Control
Bifenthrin	Bifen I/T Bonide Eight Insect Control Flower & Vegetable Above & Below Soil Insect Granules Hi-Yield Bug Blaster Bifenthrin 2.4 Ready to Spray Hi-Yield Bug Blaster II Bifenthrin 2.4 Ready to Spray Hi-Yield Vegetable & Ornamental Insect Control Granules Martin’s FLEE Ready to Use Yard Spray Monterey Mite & Insect Control Monterey Mosquito Control Ortho BugClear Insect Killer for Lawns & Landscapes Ortho Outdoor Insect Killer Concentrate Talstar P Professional Insecticide Up-Star Gold Insecticide
Cyfluthrin	BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions 24 Hour Lawn Insect Killer Ready-to-Spray BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Complete Brand Insect Killer for Soil & Turf Ready-to-Spray I BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Insect Killer for Lawns Ready-to-Spray BioAdvanced Science-Based Solutions Rose & Flower Insect Killer Ready-to-Use
Cyhalothrin	Bonide Eight Insect Control Garden & Home II Ready to Use Cutter Backyard Bug Control Spray Concentrate Cyzmic CS Controlled Release Insecticide Martin’s Cyonara Lawn & Garden Insect Control Martin’s Cyonara Lawn & Garden Insect Control Ready-to-Spray Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns & Landscapes
Horticultural Oil	Bonide All Seasons Horticulture & Dormant Spray Oil Ready-to-Spray Bonide All Seasons Horticulture Spray Oil Ready-to-Use Ferti-lome Horticultural Oil Spray Monterey Horticultural Oil Concentrate Monterey Horticultural Oil RTU Safer Brand Horticultural & Dormant Spray Oil Concentrate Southern Ag Parafine Horticultural Oil Summit Year-Round Spray Oil
Insecticidal Soap	Bonide Insecticidal Soap Multi-purpose Insect Control Ready to Use Espoma Organic Insect Soap Multi-Purpose Insect Killer Garden Safe Brand Insecticidal Soap Insect Killer Miracle-Gro Nature’s Care Insecticidal Soap Natria Insecticidal Soap Ready-to-Use Natural Guard by ferti-lome Insecticidal Soap Concentrate Safer Brand Insect Killing Soap Concentrate II Whitney Farms Insecticidal Soap 1
Malathion	Bonide Malathion 50% Insect Control Gordon’s Malathion 50% Spray Hi-Yield 55% Malathion Insect Spray Martin’s Malathion 57% Ortho Max Malathion Insect Spray Concentrate Southern Ag Malathion 50% EC Spectracide Malathion Insect Spray Concentrate Tiger Brand 50% Malathion
Spinosad	Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Concentrate Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Ready to Spray Bonide Captain Jack’s Deadbug Brew Ready to Use Bonide Colorado Potato Beetle Beater Concentrate Conserve SC Turf & Ornamental Monterey Garden Insect Spray Monterey Garden Insect Spray RTU Natural Guard by ferti-lome Spinosad Bagworm, Tent Caterpillar & Chewing Insect Control Natural Guard by ferti-lome Spinosad Soap Ortho Insect Killer Tree & Shrub Concentrate Southern Ag Conserve Naturalyte Insect Control

• RTS = Ready to Spray (a hose-end sprayer bottle)
• RTU = Ready to Use (pre-mixed spray bottle)

Important Application Notes

• Horticultural oil sprays: Do not apply when air temperatures exceed 85 °F or to drought-stressed plants. Apply late in the day when no rainfall is forecast.
• Insecticidal soap sprays: Do not apply when air temperatures exceed 90 °F or to drought-stressed plants. Apply late in the day.

Pesticide Disclaimer

With all pesticides, read and follow all label instructions, precautions, and restrictions before purchase, mixing, application, storage, or disposal. Mention of specific products is provided as examples only and does not imply endorsement by Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service. Product registrations and availability may change over time.

Pesticides are updated annually. The last updates were made on 07/26 by N. Jordan Franklin.

Originally published 05/99